Since my last post I’ve spent a significant amount of time freezing my ass off. Apparently I aligned my climbing trip with a massive Euro-wide cold front, worthy of constant mention on most major news networks. Instead of intermittently cursing the cold while building hopping in Edmonton, I’m cursing it all day while trying to scramble rocks, frozen rocks. Attempting to boulder in -10 feels more conducive to sending warm bread and pain au chocolates than hard boulders, at least pour moi. That being said a significant amount of suffer climbing has taken place and I’ve been having a good time getting crushed, exploring the ENDLESS forest, getting up classics and watching the housemates obliterate all of the forest test pieces. Once Sean left I continued to be surrounded by more humans that belittle 8B+ from benchmark to casual-one-day-affairs. Climbing and hanging with Nalle and Andy from Finland, along with J. Webb from Tennessee had me questioning why I to don’t walk up the forest ‘s classic test pieces. Its easy to forget, but they are the worlds best, and their strength and motivation towards climbing operates at another level. It was unreal to get to watch the problems I’ve been hearing about since The Real Thing actually get climbed. Webb cruised up The Island, which I thought he was going to flash; did flash Big Dragon, did Ubik Assis second try; and made quick work of Gecko Assis in heinous cold, he had to send so we could go back to the car!
Team Finland and America have now departed and I’m hoping they left some of their magical strength in one of the cupboards for me. Recently I’ve been hanging with Mike and Tammy a very awesome couple from Idaho where they run a small vineyard and also have a wicked blog www.climbidaho.com . I’ve been making sure to harass them with questions about wine regularly and now feel confident that I could blow hot air at some wine snob with some mediocre level of perceived prowess.
Today was the second climbing day I’ve had in the past week. After years of intense teenage impatience and angst I have finally learned to enjoy being on a trip despite the villainous ways of mistress weather. Unfortunately for my projects this means enjoying other things pertinent to where I am. If you’ve been to France you know what that may be comprised of. At least I can pretend the bread helps lower my center of gravity on the slopers!
I have another week in the forest. Then I’m rolling via train to London to visit some friends and do some work in the London Archives. We can only hope I will have some climbing to report on while whipping through northern France. Soon after that its back to Normandy for a long weekend with my Uncle and his friends, and then Cairo!
Usually on bouldering trips I could care less about climbing easy problems. They don’t give my ego the same stroke of approval that double-digit problems do. Maturity hasn’t been responsible for changes in this, injuries have. But in Font it all changes, Today I climbed TWENTY unreal boulder problems just to warm up, all of them were V0, and I couldn’t have had a greater time. I am oblivious to the names of the majority of boulders I’ve topped out this trip most would be “the rad thing over there.” That sort of anonymity being inexorable from beauty and classic movement can only happen here and it rules.
The nameables I’ve suffered up thus far:
A Prehension 7C+
La Nuit 7C
Big Boss 7C
Tonnerre de Brest 7B
Magic Bus 7B
La Presse Puree 7A+
Dark Room 7A+
Les Monos Assis 7A+
Passage a l’Acte 7A+
Boule de Gomme 7A+
Belle Guelu 7A